Early season quality

Glencoe Vista: Looking south from SNCL

Its been an awesome start to winter this season in Scotland, and its been baltic for what seems like a few weeks now, and looks set to stay that way for a wee while yet.

Top of Tower Ridge

Some nice easy soloing in Glencoe, an easy day on Ledge Route, Ben Nevis, and a classic Scottish Gully, Twisting Gully, III,4, ticked in perfect condition, and a few other bits and bobs. Good start to winter, and a nice consolidated base building up. Could be a good year! A few shots:

Ben summit views

A perfect day..

Looking over the head of the Lost Valley, Glencoe

Out and and about in Glencoe

The Man - The Legend

Jay taking it all in

Orion face area

CIC Hut Guardian

Jay heads down no.4

Indicator wall area

Ruined old observatory

Spot the climbers on No.3 Gully Buttress

The big yin on top of Scotland

Although I have just booked a trip to El Chorro for January, Getting out in the hills is the prioritory right now. Sport climbing training can wait..

Bouldering in Sweden - old video

Here is an old video I filmed while on a wee bouldering trip to Kjugekull, Sweden a few years ago. its been hiding on the camera the whole time, probably due to it being not very exciting. Anyway, can't believe this was 3 and a half years ago.. Was a good trip, though I wasn't particularly strong. Markus goes for the 'send'

Early season scratching

Finally winter has arrived, and with plenty of free time on the cards at the moment there will be no excuses.. hopefully.

Firstly, things I will miss about working in Edinburgh:

1. It was a nice cycle when it wasn't pissing down with rain.

2. It was nice having some expendable cash.

3. Edinburgh is a decent enough city, looks better than Glasgow and there's not so many neds kicking about.

4. Bouldering at Sailsbury Crags after work was pleasant, for the 3 weeks before it was too dark.

5. Women are more attractive in Edinburgh - Fact.

6. There was a shop that sold nice baked potatoes with huge fillings at a reasonable price.

Secondly, things I will not miss about working in Edinburgh:

1. It was a long cycle when pissing down with rain

2. 4hrs travel to and from work everyday is way too much. That's 20 hrs a week - almost a day a week spent getting to and from work!

3. Getting my bike stolen that I've had for 5 years - junkie scumbag.

4. Driving in Edinburgh is like taking a step down the evolutionary ladder.

5. Pedestrians who shout at you whilst you are cycling on the road, nowhere near them. Why? Are they special because they 'live in the capital'?

6. General incompetence of motorists driving around bikes.

7. Working in a pretty wasteful company, that seemed a little lost in its direction..

But that's all by the by. This stuff has arrived, by the bucketload:

Winter comes to the Cairngorms

After a few too many indoor sessions, and stupid amounts of rain, it's been time to get out on the hill. Last weekend was the winter season kicked off properly, with loads of high mixed routes coming into condition. Of to the Gorms for the weekend and predictably into the Northern Corries to start things off. Al decided the best way for me to get my head into leading harder mixed routes was to lead me up some Cairngorm classics, Fingers Ridge IV, 4, and The Message, IV,6.

Fingers Ridge was easy enough, with decent weather, and the Message gave Al a good struggle and myself pondering winter climbers sanity. We abbed of above the main difficulties as the weather was closing in and the light was going, and beat a retreat back to the car park, with Al falling through some semi frozen small lochs on the way. Won't be leading IV,6 for a while, that's for sure.. An entertaining weekend and a good start to the winter.

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Nice weather on Fingers Ridge

Winter is here..

Al's not so comfortable van

Crux on 'The Message'

Winter climbing is bad for you

Also had a wild walk in Glencoe a few days later with good old Jamie, master of forgetting the map. Crazy windy weather and blowing snow up high put a stop to any climbing, but it was good to be out, and the Kingshouse hotel does a mean venison burger..

Snow is building up and starting to consolidate, and the beginnings of a base could be forming - The ski centres are looking good for the time of year, lets hope its a good season!

The intimidating East face of Anoch Dubh

This photo has not been desaturated, it really was as grey as this!

Not enough free time!

Not convinced I'm cut out for the 9-5, with 20 hrs of travelling a week. Eats into way too much free time, and gets in the way of more pleasant activities. Oh well, don't think this jobs going to last for ever, so best stash the cash for now and get the head down.. I'm pretty sure free time won't be a problem soon!

Have been out occasionally, not enough, but its always good to get out cragging. Was taking advantage of being next to the Salisbury Crags for a while, convenience bouldering in the centre of Edinburgh, and perfect for some post work de-stressing. Black Wall traverse out of the way at a soft font 6c+, and plenty of easy traversing/soloing done before the nights drew in.

View from Salisbury Crags, Edinburgh. Pic from Internet, never had a camera up there!

Headed up to Dunkeld some time in September, on a cracking day, and was completely shut down on Hamish Teds, a pretty impressive (for Scotland) F7b+. Long, pretty sustained and technical, this one will take some work. Just a pity its so far away, otherwise would make a cracking project..

Random on Hamish Teds Excellent Adventure, F7b+ doing it properly..

Also on the cards was a weekend trip to the Aviemore area with Jamie, and a visit to Creag Dhu, a crag I'd only ever climbed on once before, and a damn long time ago too. Chilly weather meant we stuck to the lower grades, climbing 'Brute' and 'King Bee' both pretty good value at V.S. 5a.. must be going soft. Next day Al joined us, and we headed over to Hell's Lum, in the Loch Avon basin in the Cairngorms. Excellent place, always impressive no matter how many times I go..

We climbed 'The Clean Sweep', again only V.S., but with a very sustained long crux pitch, which I managed to blag/was lumped with. Been a while since V.S. has felt that hard.. But all good fun, and was a great day out in a remote setting. Need to get some winter routes done over there this winter..

The impressive 'Hells Lum' crag in the Cairngorms

Jamie strikes a pose

Next up, after an obscene amount of time with hardly any climbing, (about 3 weeks), a Saturday with an excellent forecast appeared, and full advantage was taken. Dougie and myself headed up to the Etive Slabs, first trip there this year.. Why?? The Slabs were pretty busy, with teams on alot of the routes, including Swastika, our intended route. We decided on 'The Valkyrie' as it looked driest, and had a couple of stars in the Guide. However, at E2/3 5b, and 210m long, it was going to be a long day.. After much gardening, sketching on unprotected slabs, falling of overlaps, wet feet and mild hypothermia, we finally found a way out at the top, just as it was getting dark, and proceeded to sketch down the pretty dodgy descent path in the dark. An excellent day out, and some much needed adventure. Funny how climbs like this always seem better in retrospect?

Escaping the Slabs, through the choss at the top (almost..)

Always a nice view at the belays

Sepia belay view

While it was still warm..

Morning view, Loch Etive

Na, one headtorch will be fine...

Dougie fiddling in the most useless psychological bit of gear ever

And that is that. Autumn is not exactly the best time of year for climbing in Scotland, however you can snatch good days here and there. Now is a good time to make the most of the dark nights and get indoors, i suppose, and get strong again. Have been trying to get to Ratho regularly, hopefully this will continue.. And here's hoping to a good cold snowy winter! Bring it on..

Part of the cycle commute

The Glasgow Science tower, way home from 9-5

Soggy end to August..

August 09 was crap. Its official:

http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/2009/august.html

read Scottish monthly "Highlights"

Wettest August in Glasgow since 1914, and 3rd wettest month EVER recorded. Summer in the normal way that people think of summer seems to end sometime around the start of July here, with May being the best month in recent years. Now that Autumn has started (or rather, started 2 months ago), we can look hopefully look forward to some decent cold weather and some winter routes. Que endless weather watching, walk in's in the dark, driving for miles to the middle of nowhere, hot aches sessions, getting ice dropped on your head, eating vast amount's of junk food, and walking for hours to get to the start of your route only to find its out of nick, but sketching up it anyway. Who said winter climbers were mad?

Work has been eating up alot of time recently, though its unfortunately an necessary evil, as without it the coffers would be running on fumes. It is mildly tedious, getting up at the same time every day and enduring the cycle to the train station in the rain, then sitting on the train for 50 min's with some seriously depressed looking people, then reversing the whole procedure at the end of the day, but I think it's kind of a novelty for me at the moment, and Edinburgh is a pretty nice city. There's even some decent bouldering in the centre of town, if it was ever dry enough to get down there..

Did manage a quick trip to Bowden Doors a few weekends ago, nice climbing there, if a little short. After some night soloing of the easier lines, next day saw most of the team soloing some E2's, being little more than high boulder problems, though boulder problems that are high enough that you really do not want to fall from, as somebody found out.. Nice crag, and some good climbing, just a little short!

Vicky on Lorraine at Bowden, a short but sweet Vs

Next up, a wee (optimistic) trip to Glen Croe and Ardvorlich sport crags. After fighting through head high bracken, falling in hidden streams and dodging rain, the Glen Croe crags were pretty damp and green looking, though with some awesome looking lines. Paul scraped up a very wet HVS which was v.poor, then we set about top roping the very sketchy and improbable looking (and well named) "The Edge of Insanity" which goes at E4 5C. All good fun.. Hard 5C, above a very nasty fall, don't think i'll bother leading this one any time soon..

The very overhanging Edge of Insanity. Good value at 5C!

Headed over to Ardvorlich after this for some slabby bolt clipping, but was pretty damp, and with a jungle like approach. One route later, and with a big black cloud looming overhead, the phsyce was gone..

Finally, a fairly succsessful trip to The Pass of Ballater. Again, pretty short, but steep, well protected climbing is always fun. Ticked loads of routes, and was even tempted to try an appealing looking E4 onsight, which was going well until past the crux, when there was a large unprotected section with only some crappy gear behind a loose flake, a long way down. Decided against continuing and scampered up the neighbouring E2, which was probably more sketchy than the E4. Should really have tried to commit to the final moves on the E4, Doctor Dipso it was called I think, but whatever. I was glad to get as far as I did! Should find some other well protected E4's and give them a bash and see what happens. Inspired by this, I tried an E3 5c that looked nice, and was longer than most of the routes at the crag. It went easily enough, though with pretty dubious gear.

Next up - "Anger and Lust " the crag classic and an awesome trad line. At E2 5c, it should have been easier than the previous route, but was anything but. Lots of sustained bridging and contortions lead to a huge roof, which is turned on the left. Reached just under the roof before having to rest, was gutted.. and came straight down. Hard E2, that's for sure. Considered giving it another go, but was pretty knackered by this stage, so will return fresh and get it done with no fussing this time. Think I took too long climbing the corner, and pumped out, though the pump was mainly in the legs, not the arms. Will be Back!! Think we managed to get about 15 routes, not a bad weekend, and some quality hard routes done too. Arriving back in a dark Glasgow in the rain was a little depressing though..

A rare glimpse of sun

Al bridging up "Little Cenotaph"

So that was Summer. Last month has been a washout, though with some excellent snatched days here and there. what will Autum bring? more than one dry day in a row? Would be nice..

Summer Shenanigans

Taking a deep breath on Erraid

Have been trying to make the most of the weather when its been decent, and my free time recently as its about to be swallowed up with work.. a necessary evil. So, with cragging in the Lakes, Cairngorms, Erraid, Limekilns, Ratho inside and out, not to mention random disintegrating basalt sport routes, the last three weeks seem to have vanished pretty quickly..

Where does the time go?

Weather has been a bit hit and miss recently, (it is July after all!) but that did mean 2 trips inside to Ratho, not really a bad thing, what with it being pretty much the best indoor climbing wall in the world..

But enough of the indoor climbing already! Only went indoors to escape the rain, honest..
Climbed a few of the outdoor routes at Ratho quarry also, which are pretty nice, and deserve a bit more traffic, which would sort out the loose rock. Best route was probably Shear Fear E2 5c, and a little F6b which had some nice moves. But at the end of the day its still a quarry, and is a bit minging and grotty, so only to be used when nothing else is dry!

Next up a one day mission to the Lakes with Ally F, early start and late finish, but worth it. Climbed four multipitch routes, all 3 stars and between HVS and E3 at Black Crag, quality day out, but pretty goosed by the time we arrived back in Glasgow.. Lakes routes always seem to look pretty gash from below, a bit vegetated and scrappy looking, but always turn out to have some pretty sweet climbing on them. Highlight was probably 'Prana' E3 5c, glad I wasn't leading the crux pitch on that one..

Ally on the crux of Prana E3

Then a wee evening jaunt to Dunglas, a tottering pile of basalt that will probably fall down if anyone puts anymore bolts in it. We pulled off plenty of handholds, and scrapped up some routes, best was probably 'The Beef Monster' F6c+, and looked at some other routes for another visit. Its not a great crag, but bolts close to Glasgow are thin on the ground, beggars cant be choosers and all that.. Should see a few more visits.

Return to Limekilns, for some more E4 redpoint action, this time 'Velvet Glove' E4 6a. Went easily enough after 3 looks on the good old top rope, despite a bit of fiddling to get the right cam in under the final roof. Dougie then followed dispatching it pretty quickly too. Next up was Ritchie, man of the steel sport climbing fingers, who decided to dispense with the top rope practice and go ground up. 3 falls later, and a good effort, with a fall from pretty much the last hold, he decided to leave it for another day. I then grovelled up a crappy E2 and the day was done, vowing to return with fresh arms to tackle a tricky looking E3 arete.

Dougie mid crux, the Velvet Glove E4 6a

Under the steep roof

Topping out

Ritchie on the roof

Ritchie off the roof

Next up, was persuaded to head the Cairngorms for one day, only 300 miles round trip.. But ended up not having to do any driving, nice one. Weather forecast was looking a bit poor but turned out decent enough in the end, if not pretty windy and chilly. The rain stayed of till heading down the last ab, so perfect timing. Headed up 'The Magic Crack', 3 pitch 3star HVS, was pretty good, with a cracking sustained final pitch. Next up was 'Damnation' HVS 5b or E1 5b depending on what guide your looking at. Two long pitches of quality granite crack climbing, why does this only get 1 star? The top corner was a great 45m sustained and pretty well protected climbing, maybe only tough HVS. Everybody seems to follow guidebook recommendations, which is fair enough, but it means that routes like this never get climbed and get a bit dirty, while others get polished and scrapped to death. Anyway, awesome route, top pitch as good as The Magic Crack. Go do it! Stopping off at Vicky's grandparents house meant a late arrival back in Glasgow, but man was it worth it. I've never been so well fed and was wondering where the tip jar was.. Dishing up a meal like that for 5 hungry climbers with 20 Min's notice.. top marks..

Me feeling a bit chilly

The excellent top crack

Tom glad he's out and about

Vicky near the top of The Magic Crack

Tom on the finger crack

The next day a few of us headed of to the isle of Erraid just of Mull. Frankly exhausted by the previous days efforts it was an early start, but have to make the most of the remaining free time! The team this time consisted of Vicky again, Mina and John C, a geezer I used to work with at an outdoor center a few years ago. Eventually after much driving, single track roads, two ferry's and a multitude of tourists and people who don't know how to drive, we made it to the destination, and proceed to carry our ridiculous sized bags over to the island for two days of taking it easy and climbing.

Erraid kind of feels like a more mellow and less serious version of Mingulay and Pabbay, with much smaller cliffs and generally no abseil descents to the crags. It does however have more vegetation and resembles the lost world in places, with the head height vegetation covering occasional holes in the ground, which are not particularly pleasant to fall down. We met some of Vicky's Friends already on the island, and proceeded to set up camp and get into island life..

Base camp

Next morning dawned bright and not a cloud in the sky, perfect. After a leisurely start myself and John headed of into the undergrowth to find the 'Asteroid Chasm' . Much fun was had finding it and although we took a direct line, guide book writer Garry Latter must have the legs of a giant to get there in the 10 mins he says from camp..

John approaching the crux of 'Space Traveller'

Space traveller, Asteroid Chasm

The Asteroid

The Chasm certainly lived up to its name, with a giant block perched at the top, and generally had an intimidating atmosphere. We climbed an HVS which looked tough but ended up quite easy, and an E1 which looked tough, and was pretty tough. Good climbing though. I do like these seriously out of the way and esoteric venues..

We then headed to to have a look at some more crags, and ended up at the Pig slab (I think) where we soloed plenty of routes due to lack of gear. The routes were less thuggy and more delicate, offering great climbing but with a protection premium.

John high on an E2 solo at Pig Slab

We checked out another crag, the Main Walls, and tried some of the most ridiculous E1's ever. One was graded E1 5b/6b, based on if you could reach the jug from a standing or jumping start. We didn't reach the jug, or even get off the ground for more than the time it took for gravity to take effect once the jumping momentum had waned.. NAILS!! Never before have I been so comprehensibly shut down on an E1. We resorted to bouldering around the many walls, trying new stuff and unknowingly climbing some of the easier lines in the guide, and generally just exploring, watching the waves and mellowing out.
We then headed back to camp for tea and a chill. We visited another crag, the Pink Walls, however, literally after placing my first bit of gear on route, the rain came down in bucket loads from nowhere and a bail was the only option. We headed back to camp with tails firmly between legs and cracked open the beer and whiskey.. eventually Vicky and Mina came back from there own epic trawling through the undergrowth, but psyched by their day.

Pesky showers

Evening entertainment

Next day dawned bright and sunny again, and as we had to get the last ferry, an early start was in order. We all headed to the closest crag to the campsite, and spent a good few hours ticking routes in the sun, with only one sandbag this time. One of those great afternoons, suns out, lots of routes to do, taking it easy and enjoying the location. Access to the crag was via a small archway under the crag with an in-situ tattered rope and water to wade through, very unusual.

Chilling at the Lower Tier

Vicky on 'Sentinel', a great HVS

Combined tactics

Vicky on 'Sentinel'

Mina on 'Jungle Book'

Sentinel again

Mina figuring out 'Jungle Book'

And then begun the long road back, to camp, then back to the car, then to the ferry, then to another ferry, then to the chip shop, then to Glagsow.. A long way, but worth it, and definetly a place to visit again! Island ambience is growing on me, and I think i'm liking the eosteric venues more and more. Now I really should start getting prepared for work...

A mushroom that grew outside my tent overnight