1st E4

Well, it had to happen sooner or later.. After having a few looks on the top rope at gear and trying the moves, there was only one thing for it, get it done. A bit of wobbling later, and a long semi rest on the final ledge before the last few moves and it was finished. Felt about maybe F6c/6c+ on lead, with an interesting mantle above a blindly placed rock 3. Might have to wait a while for a proper E4 onsight though..

Dougie stripping the gear on Ivy League E4 6a, Limekins

Early Summer Psyche

Well, I think sometime in my sleep, Scotland has been silently transported to somewhere warm, dry, and, generally, midge free. Late May, early June has been toasty, and it would be rude not to take advantage..

'Taps aff' in Scotland

Summer started with a few trips out to local holes in the ground, but, being generally populated with neds, needles and shopping trolleys, are not really worthy of a mention. First trip worth reporting was a wee look at a crag in Glencoe, where we climbed two classics of the area, Spider and Spider right hand. Although not particularly hard, these are long single pitch classics of the area and have been on the radar for a while, so, was nice to get them ticked!

Dougie near the top of 'Spider' HVS

Me on 'Spider Right Hand' (photo:Gareth)

Next up, a trip to the Portobello sea cliffs. Not visited this place before, as it's a bit of a drive, but was a worthwhile day out, if only to sit by the sea on a toasty hot day and tick a few routes. Don't think I'll be rushing back mind, rock was a bit loose. Highlight was probably watching Jamie shake his way up a sketchy E2 above a back snapping fall..

Jamie on 'The Water Margin'

Portobello sketchy arete

Next up, Bludgers Revelation, on 'The Buachaille'. Epic Route. Amazing rock, Amazing situations, Great climbing. Probably the best mountain HVS I've done. Been on the list for a while.. Great to get it done. Was a long day, climbing as a three slows things down a little, and was a bit chilly, but awesome day out..

Vicky on P2 of Bludgers

Dougie checking the guide

Vicky at top of P5 belay

Top of the Buachaille

Some guys on 'Shibboleth'

After a quiet spell, next up was a mission to the north west, with an eye on some more classics. Heading up to the Torridon and Applecross are, myself and the redoubtable Jamie ticked the Tom Patey classic ' Sword of Gideon', 'Gideon's Wrath', with a winger of quality from Wilson on P1. Moving on to Diabieg crag next day, which is one of the finest accessible multi-pitch crags in Scotland, ticked the classic (and imaginatively named) 'Route two' after a battle with the dreaded midge, and another 3 routes including the uber nice' Black Streak'E1 5c. All the routes were as nice as any I've done, and would all merit 3 (or 4) stars anywhere in the UK. Bomber gear, slabby and overhanging Gneiss, great friction and great outlook. But, as with most trips, you end up finding more stuff you want to climb, with 'The Pillar' looking like its next on the list. Its been about 7 years since I was last up this part of Scotland, and I think another visit is on the cards pretty soon..

Me on Route Two, pitch 1 (photo:Jamie)

Random on P2, Route Two


Diabieg Main wall


Applecross landscape


Ruined boat, Diabieg. Life moves slower up here..

Random on Wall of Flame, E4

And today I have found myself a new F7b route to work on, pretty local too..

Yes, the psyche is back.. now, I really should try to get some work before the money runs out..