Sunday, 20 December 2009

Early season quality

Glencoe Vista: Looking south from SNCL

Its been an awesome start to winter this season in Scotland, and its been baltic for what seems like a few weeks now, and looks set to stay that way for a wee while yet.


Top of Tower Ridge

Some nice easy soloing in Glencoe, an easy day on Ledge Route, Ben Nevis, and a classic Scottish Gully, Twisting Gully, III,4, ticked in perfect condition, and a few other bits and bobs. Good start to winter, and a nice consolidated base building up. Could be a good year! A few shots:





Ben summit views

A perfect day..

Looking over the head of the Lost Valley, Glencoe

Out and and about in Glencoe

The Man - The Legend

Jay taking it all in

Orion face area

CIC Hut Guardian

Jay heads down no.4

Indicator wall area


Ruined old observatory

Spot the climbers on No.3 Gully Buttress






The big yin on top of Scotland

Although I have just booked a trip to El Chorro for January, Getting out in the hills is the prioritory right now. Sport climbing training can wait..

Monday, 7 December 2009

Bouldering in Sweden - old video



Here is an old video I filmed while on a wee bouldering trip to Kjugekull, Sweden a few years ago. its been hiding on the camera the whole time, probably due to it being not very exciting. Anyway, can't believe this was 3 and a half years ago.. Was a good trip, though I wasn't particularly strong. Markus goes for the 'send'

Thursday, 3 December 2009

Early season scratching

Finally winter has arrived, and with plenty of free time on the cards at the moment there will be no excuses.. hopefully.

Firstly, things I will miss about working in Edinburgh:

1. It was a nice cycle when it wasn't pissing down with rain.
2. It was nice having some expendable cash.
3. Edinburgh is a decent enough city, looks better than Glasgow and there's not so many neds kicking about.
4. Bouldering at Sailsbury Crags after work was pleasant, for the 3 weeks before it was too dark.
5. Women are more attractive in Edinburgh - Fact.
6. There was a shop that sold nice baked potatoes with huge fillings at a reasonable price.

Secondly, things I will not miss about working in Edinburgh:

1. It was a long cycle when pissing down with rain
2. 4hrs travel to and from work everyday is way too much. That's 20 hrs a week - almost a day a week spent getting to and from work!
3. Getting my bike stolen that I've had for 5 years - junkie scumbag.
4. Driving in Edinburgh is like taking a step down the evolutionary ladder.
5. Pedestrians who shout at you whilst you are cycling on the road, nowhere near them. Why? Are they special because they 'live in the capital'?
6. General incompetence of motorists driving around bikes.
7. Working in a pretty wasteful company, that seemed a little lost in its direction..

But that's all by the by. This stuff has arrived, by the bucketload:

Winter comes to the Cairngorms


After a few too many indoor sessions, and stupid amounts of rain, it's been time to get out on the hill. Last weekend was the winter season kicked off properly, with loads of high mixed routes coming into condition. Of to the Gorms for the weekend and predictably into the Northern Corries to start things off. Al decided the best way for me to get my head into leading harder mixed routes was to lead me up some Cairngorm classics, Fingers Ridge IV, 4, and The Message, IV,6.


Fingers Ridge was easy enough, with decent weather, and the Message gave Al a good struggle and myself pondering winter climbers sanity. We abbed of above the main difficulties as the weather was closing in and the light was going, and beat a retreat back to the car park, with Al falling through some semi frozen small lochs on the way. Won't be leading IV,6 for a while, that's for sure.. An entertaining weekend and a good start to the winter.

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Nice weather on Fingers Ridge

Winter is here..

Al's not so comfortable van

Crux on 'The Message'

Winter climbing is bad for you


Also had a wild walk in Glencoe a few days later with good old Jamie, master of forgetting the map. Crazy windy weather and blowing snow up high put a stop to any climbing, but it was good to be out, and the Kingshouse hotel does a mean venison burger..


Snow is building up and starting to consolidate, and the beginnings of a base could be forming - The ski centres are looking good for the time of year, lets hope its a good season!


The intimidating East face of Anoch Dubh


This photo has not been desaturated, it really was as grey as this!