Climbing on uninhabited islands

I mentioned in an earlier post that the extended break over the winter has not affected my lowly climbing ability. Well, I think it has, unfortunately.. Not too much, but enough to drop a grade or two, that's for sure. The week long trip to Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides was blessed with sunshine every day, with only one or two showers to contend with the whole time, perfect. I'm sure the weather up in the north west of Scotland is not as bad as people make out, I'm sure Glasgow see's more rain than up there...

The Mingulay beach/landing area

With weather like this, the team of 10 set about climbing as many routes as possible, almost looking forward to a rainy day for a rest.. Highlight routes of the week seemed to be 'Voyage of Faith', E3 5b,5b,5b,5c, climbed by Neil and Ally, 'Sula', E2 5b,5b,4b, climbed by most, though not by myself due to having 'the fear', and the ridiculous 'The Arch Deacon' HVS, Scotlands answer to A Dream of White Horses and climbed by all. This route follows an incredibly exposed traverse line above the very lip of a huge sea cave/arch, and when looking down to find footholds, your eye can't help but be drawn to the 60m drop straight to the crashing sea. A fall on this pitch would be extremely serious, involving a big swing, ropes going over sharp edges, and a rather long prusik back up the rope to reach rock. A distinct 'schpincter training' moment indeed.. A couple of new routes were also climbed, mainly due to abbing off the wrong spot of the cliff while looking for the South Pillar, by Neil and Ally, 'Conspiracy Theory' and Swine Fever', both E1 5b. Good effort! Maybe they'll find South pillar next year..

Malcom and Neil on Arch Deacon

Malcom on traverse of 'Deacon'

Dougie on second traverse pitch of 'Deacon'

After the excitement of The Arch Deacon, which frankly scrambled my head, the rest of the week was spent at a more leisurely pace for myself, though still climbing every day and enjoying the very unique rock architecture and ambiance of the island. Other enjoyable climbs done were 'Mcall of the Wild', which crosses over the Arch Deacon somewhere on its second pitch, with 'Port Pillar', 'Mary Doune', and 'Hawaiian Tropic' also being memorable.

Andy and Dave at the Gerium Walls

Malcom at Gerium Walls

There used to be around 180 people living on Mingulay, until they were all evacuated around 1914. Living on seabirds, eggs, and fish, climbing down huge grassy cliffs to catch birds and battle the waves to catch fish, it must have been a tough existence.. Even in the one week we were there, our fishing boat skipper Donald, would not take us out until the sea's calmed down, and came to collect us a day early due to a bad forecast. I cannot imagine what it would be like to live on the island year round, being stranded in winter for possibly months at a time.. On the other hand, the islanders would never had know war, or money worries, and, hell, its always windy so that keeps the midges away..

Mingulay Bay as it was 100 years ago

Old rusty bed post

Our 'base camp' by the old school house

Only one building remains in reasonably good condition, the old school house, which looks like it has been used as a bothy from time to time. The other buildings are little more than rubble, testimony to the power of the winter storms out here.

The island is covered in wildlife, mainly birds, some of which seem relatively unbothered by humans climbing all over them. Puffins, Razorbills, Fulmars, Shags, Auks and loads of others I don't know the name of all patrol the skies and cliffs, watch out for the dive bombing Bonxies, bloody big creatures! Seals everywhere, they seem curious of the jangling sound made by climbing gear, and often watched us make progress on routes, interspersed with lazing about on the beach taking in the sun.

So, a great trip. 15 routes climbed, some big, some short, some easy, some tricky, all good. But have to get stronger again!

Looking over to Pabbay from Gurnsey Mor, beware Bonxies!

The cliffs of the South Pillar area

Donald leaves us for the week

Razorbill?

Scotland??

Tidying up the mess at top of Gerium Walls

Unloading onto the Island

The Great Arch on Pabbay - Imagine the traverse on the lip of that..

Jim (photo: Burnsie)

Mingulay 16th - 24th May

Away to Mingulay for some remote trad climbing action next week. Lets hope the weather forecast I saw was wrong..

Some shots from Pabby last year..

Lets have more of this:

And less of this:

Skye...

Was on the Isle of Skye for a couple of days, and the weather was amazing, wall to wall sunshine, and no midges! Perfect. No 'proper' routes climbed, as it was a bit of a family trip, but still managed to take a family freind up the Inaccessible Pinnacle, solo up Collie's Route to the Cioch, and bag plenty of Munros. Think i'll be back soon for the whole Cullin ridge and some proper tradding, the rock is amazing, and there's so much of it out there...

Some more pictures from the rocky island..

A wee trip to the Lakes

Suppose there should be some climbing in this blog too.. Finally managed to get out for a climb in the Lakes a couple of days ago, first proper bit of climbing since coming home from Switzerland.

Unfortunately, the weather had other plans, as usual.. Still, myself and Jamie managed to get some routes in, almost getting blown of a big V.S. in the Honister Pass, and a nice E1 at Shepherd's Crag.

Don't think the extended break from climbing has had too adverse an affect on my lowly ability, certainly outdoors anyway, and it felt really good to be out again, dodging showers and bumbling up routes.

After a wet night in a tent that nearly blew away, and with even the Bowderstone looking pretty grim we admitted defeat and headed back on to the M74, via the giver of all life and energy, Keswick chippy.

End of season musings..

Well best get this started! Here is a selection of photos from the recent season in Grindelwald, Switzerland. Not much work, but guess that leaves plenty of time for skiing, eh?












Grindelwald is a bit of a funny wee place, it's quite a flat resort with only a few steeper areas, and finding decent off-piste can be a challenge. It seems to attract alot of old Swiss punters who like to cruise about and enjoy the view.. still, when it does snow, they tend to leave the fresh stuff alone, which suits me fine! There is good touring to be had in the area, but a lack of partners who were up for hiking more than 50m meant that I only managed some short tours.. Lack of work meant there was plenty of time to improve my own skiing, which will have to be taken up a step in some areas if the ISIA is to be completed. Spent alot of time on the one bump run in the resort, up, down, up, down, over and over again until I began to feel some improvment, my knees hurt now...

So, overall, 128hrs teaching in Grindelwald, and 24hrs in Couyrmayer - not the most profitable season ever, thats for sure.. Still, plenty of time for jumping off cliffs and skiing powder!


Ollie and the ever present Eiger