Trip Tales: Climbing on uninhabited islands

I mentioned in an earlier post that the extended break over the winter has not affected my lowly climbing ability. Well, I think it has, unfortunately.. Not too much, but enough to drop a grade or two, that's for sure. The week long trip to Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides was blessed with sunshine every day, with only one or two showers to contend with the whole time, perfect. I'm sure the weather up in the north west of Scotland is not as bad as people make out, I'm sure Glasgow see's more rain than up there...

The Mingulay beach/landing area

With weather like this, the team of 10 set about climbing as many routes as possible, almost looking forward to a rainy day for a rest.. Highlight routes of the week seemed to be 'Voyage of Faith', E3 5b,5b,5b,5c, climbed by Neil and Ally, 'Sula', E2 5b,5b,4b, climbed by most, though not by myself due to having 'the fear', and the ridiculous 'The Arch Deacon' HVS, Scotlands answer to A Dream of White Horses and climbed by all. This route follows an incredibly exposed traverse line above the very lip of a huge sea cave/arch, and when looking down to find footholds, your eye can't help but be drawn to the 60m drop straight to the crashing sea. A fall on this pitch would be extremely serious, involving a big swing, ropes going over sharp edges, and a rather long prusik back up the rope to reach rock. A distinct 'schpincter training' moment indeed.. A couple of new routes were also climbed, mainly due to abbing off the wrong spot of the cliff while looking for the South Pillar, by Neil and Ally, 'Conspiracy Theory' and Swine Fever', both E1 5b. Good effort! Maybe they'll find South pillar next year..

Malcom and Neil on Arch Deacon

Malcom on traverse of 'Deacon'

Dougie on second traverse pitch of 'Deacon'

After the excitement of The Arch Deacon, which frankly scrambled my head, the rest of the week was spent at a more leisurely pace for myself, though still climbing every day and enjoying the very unique rock architecture and ambiance of the island. Other enjoyable climbs done were 'Mcall of the Wild', which crosses over the Arch Deacon somewhere on its second pitch, with 'Port Pillar', 'Mary Doune', and 'Hawaiian Tropic' also being memorable.

Andy and Dave at the Gerium Walls

Malcom at Gerium Walls

There used to be around 180 people living on Mingulay, until they were all evacuated around 1914. Living on seabirds, eggs, and fish, climbing down huge grassy cliffs to catch birds and battle the waves to catch fish, it must have been a tough existence.. Even in the one week we were there, our fishing boat skipper Donald, would not take us out until the sea's calmed down, and came to collect us a day early due to a bad forecast. I cannot imagine what it would be like to live on the island year round, being stranded in winter for possibly months at a time.. On the other hand, the islanders would never had know war, or money worries, and, hell, its always windy so that keeps the midges away..

Mingulay Bay as it was 100 years ago

Old rusty bed post

Our 'base camp' by the old school house

Only one building remains in reasonably good condition, the old school house, which looks like it has been used as a bothy from time to time. The other buildings are little more than rubble, testimony to the power of the winter storms out here.

The island is covered in wildlife, mainly birds, some of which seem relatively unbothered by humans climbing all over them. Puffins, Razorbills, Fulmars, Shags, Auks and loads of others I don't know the name of all patrol the skies and cliffs, watch out for the dive bombing Bonxies, bloody big creatures! Seals everywhere, they seem curious of the jangling sound made by climbing gear, and often watched us make progress on routes, interspersed with lazing about on the beach taking in the sun.

So, a great trip. 15 routes climbed, some big, some short, some easy, some tricky, all good. But have to get stronger again!