August 09 was crap. Its official:
read Scottish monthly "Highlights"
Wettest August in Glasgow since 1914, and 3rd wettest month EVER recorded. Summer in the normal way that people think of summer seems to end sometime around the start of July here, with May being the best month in recent years. Now that Autumn has started (or rather, started 2 months ago), we can look hopefully look forward to some decent cold weather and some winter routes. Que endless weather watching, walk in's in the dark, driving for miles to the middle of nowhere, hot aches sessions, getting ice dropped on your head, eating vast amount's of junk food, and walking for hours to get to the start of your route only to find its out of nick, but sketching up it anyway. Who said winter climbers were mad?
Work has been eating up alot of time recently, though its unfortunately an necessary evil, as without it the coffers would be running on fumes. It is mildly tedious, getting up at the same time every day and enduring the cycle to the train station in the rain, then sitting on the train for 50 min's with some seriously depressed looking people, then reversing the whole procedure at the end of the day, but I think it's kind of a novelty for me at the moment, and Edinburgh is a pretty nice city. There's even some decent bouldering in the centre of town, if it was ever dry enough to get down there..
Did manage a quick trip to Bowden Doors a few weekends ago, nice climbing there, if a little short. After some night soloing of the easier lines, next day saw most of the team soloing some E2's, being little more than high boulder problems, though boulder problems that are high enough that you really do not want to fall from, as somebody found out.. Nice crag, and some good climbing, just a little short!
Vicky on Lorraine at Bowden, a short but sweet Vs
Next up, a wee (optimistic) trip to Glen Croe and Ardvorlich sport crags. After fighting through head high bracken, falling in hidden streams and dodging rain, the Glen Croe crags were pretty damp and green looking, though with some awesome looking lines. Paul scraped up a very wet HVS which was v.poor, then we set about top roping the very sketchy and improbable looking (and well named) "The Edge of Insanity" which goes at E4 5C. All good fun.. Hard 5C, above a very nasty fall, don't think i'll bother leading this one any time soon..
The very overhanging Edge of Insanity. Good value at 5C!Headed over to Ardvorlich after this for some slabby bolt clipping, but was pretty damp, and with a jungle like approach. One route later, and with a big black cloud looming overhead, the phsyce was gone..
Finally, a fairly succsessful trip to The Pass of Ballater. Again, pretty short, but steep, well protected climbing is always fun. Ticked loads of routes, and was even tempted to try an appealing looking E4 onsight, which was going well until past the crux, when there was a large unprotected section with only some crappy gear behind a loose flake, a long way down. Decided against continuing and scampered up the neighbouring E2, which was probably more sketchy than the E4. Should really have tried to commit to the final moves on the E4, Doctor Dipso it was called I think, but whatever. I was glad to get as far as I did! Should find some other well protected E4's and give them a bash and see what happens. Inspired by this, I tried an E3 5c that looked nice, and was longer than most of the routes at the crag. It went easily enough, though with pretty dubious gear.
Next up - "Anger and Lust " the crag classic and an awesome trad line. At E2 5c, it should have been easier than the previous route, but was anything but. Lots of sustained bridging and contortions lead to a huge roof, which is turned on the left. Reached just under the roof before having to rest, was gutted.. and came straight down. Hard E2, that's for sure. Considered giving it another go, but was pretty knackered by this stage, so will return fresh and get it done with no fussing this time. Think I took too long climbing the corner, and pumped out, though the pump was mainly in the legs, not the arms. Will be Back!! Think we managed to get about 15 routes, not a bad weekend, and some quality hard routes done too. Arriving back in a dark Glasgow in the rain was a little depressing though..
A rare glimpse of sun
Al bridging up "Little Cenotaph" So that was Summer. Last month has been a washout, though with some excellent snatched days here and there. what will Autum bring? more than one dry day in a row? Would be nice..
Zeppelin, pitch 5
El Chorro
Sheep
Jamie inspects his dinner
Huge headwall above the Pomea Del Roca cave
Someone on something hard
Susan abbing down Amptrax
Dodgy beam
Alison scampers across an interesting part of the walkway
The Zeppelin wall
Another dodgy beam
The Camieo del ray
Entrance to the lower Gorge
Looking over to Africa Wall
Huge caves
Looking back to the lower gorge
Huge caves and the line of Zeppelin
Awesome bouldering cave
Wet day bouldering
Me on Pome del Roca, great steep tufa route
A team high on Zeppelin, vultures below
Ab into Start of Zeppelin
Contemplating the Ab into Zeppelin
Gaz enjoying the sunshine
Team in front aiding the big roof
High above the Gorge
Tom enjoying the sun at this point
Aiding the crux pitch, looking down
Gaz leads up one of the easier run out pitches, still about HVS
Tom coming up pitch 5/6? Before the rain, anyway
Baltic.. top of pitch 6/7?
Top of Zeppelin, finally..
Glad to be alive after Zeppelin
Walking about in the rain, last day
Night view from the Olive Branch
