Mid-winter round up

What an epic winter it's been.. getting milder now for a wee while, hopefully not for too long and the higher routes will benefit from some thaw/freeze, but as this is the first really mild spell since, um, November, we cant really complain!

Winter highlights since coming back from El Chorro: topping out SC Gully at 11:15 into blazing sunshine, more ice entertainment at Udalaih, including leading my first couple of grade 5's, and Tower Ridge on the Ben, in great conditions but cloudy, until the summit where it all cleared.. And ski touring above Crianlairich looking at massive avalanche debris, see other post..

And skiing in the Campsies above Glasgow, that's a rarity..

Not so nice was almost getting swept away by large spindrift avalanches on Stob Corrie nan Beith and twatting my knee on the walk out..

Also took part in a Winter Mountain Leader course, which left me with plenty to think about, including how to dig a bucket seat and axe belay in ice in 5 mins, and how to find the time to log 60-80 hill days prior to assessment..

Retreating off Central Gully

Spindrift on Stob corrie nam Beith

John takes a break

Snow hole fun and games 1

Snow hole fun and games 2

Damp and cold at weem - not time for summer rock yet!

Early Morn in SCNL

Start of SC Gully

Wandering over to Bidean nam Bian

Bidean nam Bian

Glasgow from the Campsies

Paul coming up Organ Pipe wall

Approach to Organ Pipe wall

Udalaih vista

The Smirk - melting!

Pete N on 1st pitch of The Smirk

The Smirk VI/V 5

Me on Doctors Dilema, pitch 2

My first grade V, Organ pipe wall

Team in front on Eastern Traverse

Mist clears

Randoms below Gardyloo Buttress

Pete H

Jaybob

Photo Pete H

The mist clears

Team climbing Tower Gap

Top of Tower Ridge

Lots of snow

Indicator wall, figure top left

Me on Eastern traverse, photo Pete H

Approaching the Douglas gap, photo pete h

Random atop Tower Ridge

Corrie na ciste

Cic hut icefalls

Getting dark over the Orion Face

Early season scratching

Finally winter has arrived, and with plenty of free time on the cards at the moment there will be no excuses.. hopefully.

Firstly, things I will miss about working in Edinburgh:

1. It was a nice cycle when it wasn't pissing down with rain.

2. It was nice having some expendable cash.

3. Edinburgh is a decent enough city, looks better than Glasgow and there's not so many neds kicking about.

4. Bouldering at Sailsbury Crags after work was pleasant, for the 3 weeks before it was too dark.

5. Women are more attractive in Edinburgh - Fact.

6. There was a shop that sold nice baked potatoes with huge fillings at a reasonable price.

Secondly, things I will not miss about working in Edinburgh:

1. It was a long cycle when pissing down with rain

2. 4hrs travel to and from work everyday is way too much. That's 20 hrs a week - almost a day a week spent getting to and from work!

3. Getting my bike stolen that I've had for 5 years - junkie scumbag.

4. Driving in Edinburgh is like taking a step down the evolutionary ladder.

5. Pedestrians who shout at you whilst you are cycling on the road, nowhere near them. Why? Are they special because they 'live in the capital'?

6. General incompetence of motorists driving around bikes.

7. Working in a pretty wasteful company, that seemed a little lost in its direction..

But that's all by the by. This stuff has arrived, by the bucketload:

Winter comes to the Cairngorms

After a few too many indoor sessions, and stupid amounts of rain, it's been time to get out on the hill. Last weekend was the winter season kicked off properly, with loads of high mixed routes coming into condition. Of to the Gorms for the weekend and predictably into the Northern Corries to start things off. Al decided the best way for me to get my head into leading harder mixed routes was to lead me up some Cairngorm classics, Fingers Ridge IV, 4, and The Message, IV,6.

Fingers Ridge was easy enough, with decent weather, and the Message gave Al a good struggle and myself pondering winter climbers sanity. We abbed of above the main difficulties as the weather was closing in and the light was going, and beat a retreat back to the car park, with Al falling through some semi frozen small lochs on the way. Won't be leading IV,6 for a while, that's for sure.. An entertaining weekend and a good start to the winter.

.

Nice weather on Fingers Ridge

Winter is here..

Al's not so comfortable van

Crux on 'The Message'

Winter climbing is bad for you

Also had a wild walk in Glencoe a few days later with good old Jamie, master of forgetting the map. Crazy windy weather and blowing snow up high put a stop to any climbing, but it was good to be out, and the Kingshouse hotel does a mean venison burger..

Snow is building up and starting to consolidate, and the beginnings of a base could be forming - The ski centres are looking good for the time of year, lets hope its a good season!

The intimidating East face of Anoch Dubh

This photo has not been desaturated, it really was as grey as this!

Skye...

Was on the Isle of Skye for a couple of days, and the weather was amazing, wall to wall sunshine, and no midges! Perfect. No 'proper' routes climbed, as it was a bit of a family trip, but still managed to take a family freind up the Inaccessible Pinnacle, solo up Collie's Route to the Cioch, and bag plenty of Munros. Think i'll be back soon for the whole Cullin ridge and some proper tradding, the rock is amazing, and there's so much of it out there...

Some more pictures from the rocky island..